- Introducion
- The Sea
- The Adriatic Coast
- The Ionic Coast
- The Grottos
- The Handicrafts
- History
- Farms
- Towers
- Castles
INTRODUCTION
Salento is that strip of land that forms the heel of the boot
(lo Stivale = Italy). It is located between two wonderful seas:
the Ionic (Ovest) and the Adriatic (East). There are more than
250 Km of coast which is at times low and sandy and at times
high and indented.
In the oriental part it was a land of conquest with the passing
of the Greeks, the Byzantine and the Barberian pirats. The first
inhabitants of Salento were the Messaps, famous horse breeders,
who arrives from the Illyrian shores.
Salento is a peninsular region belonging to the South-eastern
part of Puglia.
Geographically speaking Salento corresponds to the old land
of Otranto. It embraces the whole province of Lecce, with 97
villages and 39 small hamlets surrounded by the green of secular
olive-yards, tobacco and vineyards. It has white houses, narrow
and winding roads where everyone has its own dialect. However
in some villages, along the axis linking Ostumi to Taranto,
- almost all Brindisi hamlet and Taranto one - Greek is still
spoken.
It stretches from the so called "soglia messapica"
to the Cape of Santa Maria di Leuca, between the Gulf of Taranto
(Ionic) and the Otranto Canal (Adriatic).
Salento is also famous for its nature; there are exactly 1390
different species of flower plants.
Salento is a peace of land full of history and traditions whose
strong points are its natural and architectural beauties, its
hospitality, its magic atmosphere, its several wonders to discover,
its warm sun, its blue sky, its crystal sea and its dreamlike
coast.
«
UP
THE
SEA
Salento, real wonder of the Italian peninsula, is a narrow and
long bent between the Adriatic and the Ionio characterised by
the coasts that are highly evocative and charming.
They show a variety of situations, so different to be a continuous
surprise.
Salento is washed on three sides by the sea: Ionic Sea from
Taranto coast line to Leuca, Adriatic Sea from Brindisi coast
line to Otranto (Punta Palacia to be precise), beyond this city,
towards south, it should be still Ionic Sea but a rather deep
rooted habit tends to move the border of Adriatic up to Leuca.
However, this is a wrong habit because, studying nautical maps
and international conventions, they indicate the border of Ionic
Sea exactly up to Otranto.
To experience Salento it is necessary to go along two itineraries
starting from Brindisi coast line: the first along the Adriatic
coast, towards Otranto that goes on after the Cape where the
Adriatic ends and joins the Ionic up to Leuca; the second along
the Ionic coast from Santa Maria di Leuca, towards Gallipoli,
Nardo Marine, Porto Selvaggio up to Taranto.
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THE
ADRIATIC COAST
From this side of the coast, leaving from Brindisi and continuing
to Lecce, the first Marina is Casalabate. It rose few years
ago and during the winter it is almost completely uninhabited.
Then, through the coast that alternates long sandy shore at
intervals with low cliffs one reaches Torre Rinalda, Torre Chianca
and Frigole.
Going on through the luxuriant pine forests, one reaches San
Cataldo that is traditionally the beach of Lecce inhabitants
also because it is only 11 Km far from the city. It has a small
touristic harbour, wide and clean beaches. The old harbour,
instead, still preserves the old remains of the messapic Lupiae
and of the roman harbour of Adriano with its lighthouse. It
also guards the few fishermen on the spot.
Going on along the panoramic state road 611 one reaches Vernole
and the Cesine Oasis that is protected by a specific International
Convention and is called since 1977 "a damp area with an
international value". The area is 620 hectares wide and
stretches for about 6 Km along the coast line. Once it was full
of morasses and bogs and it is now managed by the WWF voluntary
assistants under the surveillance of the State Forester Guards.
The importance of the Oasis is to offer a chance of admiring
real natural habitat, from dunes to saltish pools, from cane-brakes
to ilex and pines forests, up to the undergrowth of myrtles,
lentisks and brooms that are a shelter for several animal and
vegetal species and cross-road for some non permanent birds.
From here one goes on to San Forca that up to forty years ago
was a village of few fishermen, whereas today it has become
a thickly populated seaside resort with its low shore.
Continuing towards South there is Roca Vecchia with its high
and indented shore and its transparent sea. Excavations have
brought to light big blocks of stone belonging to the town-walls,
a necropolis with several rectangular shaped tombs excavated
in the rock and funeral equipment of 1600 BC. Above all there
were Apulian vessels with red figures and messapic "trozzelle"
(small and bulging amphorae). Roca Nuova has instead its castle
on two floors and a small church dedicated to S. Vito. On the
promontory and below the column that supports the Virgin Mary
statue, there is the Poesia (Poetry) Grotto. It is possible
to reach the Grotto from a small stairway, but in the past it
could be reached only by the sea. There, to honour the god Thaotor
Andirahas (as it was called by the Messaps), entered a lot of
sailors who spoke different languages as it is evident by the
thousands of votive inscriptions that are on the walls of the
Grotto.
Leaving Roca one continues to Torre dell'Orso with its tower
sticking out from a spike that embraces the beach. Whereas another
spike is a sheer drop from the cliff to the sea. It touches
San Cristoforo Grotto that has protohystoric testimony. Further
on there are two cliffs called the two sisters that guard the
inlet. The last inlet of Medelungo commune is Sant'Andrea that
opens between two rocks.
Immediately after there are the lands of Otranto with their
high coast, their very evocative small inlets and their sandy
shores. Going through a Mediterranean bush and a tick pine-forest
one arrives in the area of Alimini Lakes. These are two water
mirrors of different origin: Great Alimini that communicates
with the sea through a narrow passage closed by a bulkhead,
on which the coast road runs; whereas Small Alimini, also called
Fontanella, is a deep hollow that originates a spring of fresh
water. They run parallel along the coast and are characterised
by marshy vegetation and thick cane-brakes that shelter very
rare species of vegetables such as carnivorous plants, marshy
orchids and heather from Salento. The lakes are an Oasis of
faun protection and are the destination of coots and herons.
There are still 10 Km to reach Otranto that was called "the
city of martyrs" because of the 800 inhabitants that were
beheaded by the Turks on the Minerva hill in 1480. Otranto is
the Byzantine heart and the mosaic of the life in the Cathedral.
It has a castle that was built in 1578 and is surrounded by
a ditch.
Going on towards South it is possible to catch a glimpse of
the Serpe (Snake) tower, symbol of the city and metaphorically
covered with blood by the bauxite storehouses, and of Masseria
delle Orte where the sea draws inlets that can be reached through
small paths. From here one reaches Punta Palascia, that is the
most oriental point of Italy, at 82 meters above sea level.
Passing near some farms and admiring grottos and towers, one
reaches Porto Badisco where it is said that Enea landed. It
is composed by a long and narrow inlet among high rocks. It
is a fiord in miniature and a prehistoric sanctuary surrounded
by oleanders and Indian figs.
Going still onwards there is the sulphureous Santa Cesarea Terme
famous for its hydrotherapeutic springs of its four caves and
for its thermal tourism.
Now one reaches Castro that dominates from above. It has the
old town and the castle to which oppose the harbour and one
of the most fascinating inlet of the region, so wonderful that
it gained the blue flag of the European Community for the pureness
of the sea. Along the rugged coast there are cliffs vertically
on the sea and the big Zinzulusa Grotto, that is almost a Km
long, it has stalactites and stalagmites and it is a colony
for many bats.
The same crystal sea is along Andrano coast, famous for its
Verde (Green) Grotto with its flickering stalactites, up to
Tricase coast line with its important harbour, parallel to Marina
Serra, with a quadrangular tower that links Novaglie through
a deep gully called Ponte sul Ciolo. Thinking about these places
it is not possible to forget the magnificence of nature.
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THE
IONIC COAST
Santa Maria di Leuca is the small town located between the two
seas. It is 800 Km from Africa. It has a lighthouse of 47 meters
and a sanctuary situated on the highest part of the promontory.
It gave hospitality to pilgrims from all over the world. It
is known for its villa of the end of the nineteenth century
that has an oriental and neo-classic style.
Once Punta Ristola has been doubled the landscape changes considerably:
the high and wild coast changes into lower cliffs and sandy
extents, red lands and vineyards interrupted by towers of the
sixteenth century.
The first small village is Patù with its S. Gregorio
tower. It was Vereto harbour, ancient messapic town destroyed
during the IX century.
Going up towards North there is Torre Vado (Morciano di Leuca)
and Pescoluse, other seaside resorts such as Torre Pali (Salve),
Torre Mozza and Torre San Giovanni (Ugento). This coast line
was once very marshy. After 5 Km there is Ugento, ancient messapic
town, with still some parts of the ancient walls. It is the
seat of a Civic Museum that has many objects of the past. The
castle is located 100 meters above sea level and the cathedral
is of 1700.
Before reaching Gallipoli there is Torre Suda, Marina di Racale,
Mancaversa and Torre Pizzo, a long extent of beaches and low
rocks.
Now one reaches Gallipoli with its castle surrounded by high
walls, the cathedral dedicated to S. Agata with the Baroque
façade and other churches scattered around the city,
the harbour for its trades and fishing, the Greek and Roman
fountain and the courtly Palaces. On the horizon S. Andrea Island
with its lighthouse is dimly seen.
Leaving Gallipoli and passing Torre Sabea, there is Rivabella
and Lido Conchiglie, an extent of dunes, the wonderful Montagna
Spaccata (the splitted mountain).
Immediately after there is Santa Maria al Bagno, already famous
for its thermal baths and its roman harbour, a pleasant bathing
town and with several dated buildings of the end of the nineteenth
century; Santa Caterina, protected by Dell' Alto tower that
dominates it from the Ravine of the Damned and from the tower
of the XVII century that bears the same name.
In this area the naturalistic Park of Porto Selvaggio is remarkable,
with Capelvenere Grotto and Uluzzo Grotto. The waters of Uluzzo
bay are inviting and transparent. In Cavallo and Uluzzo Grotto
there are the prehistoric archives.
Porto Cesareo, already a basilian centre, today is a remarkable
touristic centre with 17 Km of beaches that face towards an
archipelago of small islands of which the most known is the
Conigli (Rabbits) Island. Also from this side the coast appears
at intervals high and rocky and at intervals low and sandy,
whereas the inland is composed by thick forests and bare rocks.
In this area there are also towers together with farms, olive-yards
and vine-yards. Immediately after there is Torre Chianca that
faces the small Malva Island, Torre Lapillo with its beautiful
inlet that, after Torre Castiglione and Torre Columena, gives
way to all the coast road up to Taranto, the end of the Salento
land.
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GROTTOS
Salento caves preserve an extraordinary inventory of fossil
remains.
Starting from the Adriatic side, in Roca Vecchia, there is immediately
the Poesia (Poetry) Grotto, a natural paradise that preserves
some important archaeological witnesses. The legend tells that
in this Grotto, from its salutary waters, a wonderful princess
loved to bathe and with her beauty she draws many poets from
all over the South of Italy.
Going on towards South, the next Grotto is the Neolithic Cervi
(Deer) Grotto, in Porto Badisco, one of the most imposing monuments
of pictorial and rocky art of Europe. It has more than 3.000
pictographs in ochre and bats guano that represent dancing and
hunting scenes, geometric figures and shamans. In Castro there
is Romanelli Grotto with graffiti that show a mythology founded
on sexual symbolism. Remains of elephants, rhinoceros, deer
and penguins were discovered.
Zinzulusa Grotto, so called for the numberless stalactites and
stalagmites conformations that recall hanged rags shapes, can
be reached from a ravine and from the sea. Azzurra Grotto is
not far from Zinzulusa and can be reached only from the sea.
The Grotto has a variable luminescence from green to cobalt,
thanks to the light refraction phenomenon.
Further south, in Capo di Leuca, there are antelucan caves.
Tre Porte Grotto, so called because it has three arches at sight
on the sea, preserves remains of the Neanderthal man and of
African fauna. Then there are Elefante (Elephant) Grotto and
Giganti (Giants) Grotto where bones and teeth of pachyderms
were discovered. Diavolo (Devil) Grotto has a mouth of four
meters, stands on Punta Ristola and can be reached either from
the sea or from the land. Pieces of utensils and Neolithic ceramics
were discovered there. Presepe (Creche) Grotto is on the ionic
side of Leuca, it is opened with two mouths divided by a wall
and it is important for the discovery of a rare species of water
sponge in course of extinction.
On the Ionic side, from Punta Ristola to Uluzzo Bay, at the
borders of Portoselvaggio Park Cavallo (Horse) Grotto and Uluzzo
Grotto open with deposits of Palaeolithic hand made articles
and remains of big mammals. The sea uniqueness, its charm and
its greatness make even more characteristic these very ancient
rocks protrusions.
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HANDICRAFTS
TERRACOTTA
Salento boasts a glorious and most ancient tradition in handicraft:
ceramics and terracotta that date back to the third millennium
B.C. Just think about all the finds that date back to the prehistoric
age and that people the museums in Salento. In particular, pots
have a very ancient tradition because of "cucco",
a small jug with a single handle used to pour water.
The water was taken by the women who went to the fountains and
filled an "orcio", a larger vessel made of terracotta,
with two handles, so that it could be lifted and put on the
head. Other types of pots, all bigger than cucco, where "fiasca"
, a flask covered with wicker with a single handle, "minzani"
a vessel used for oil, "capase", a glazed vessel used
to preserve foods, "pignate", pans used to cook legumes,
"trimmuni" and "limmo" a small vessel that
still has a domestic use. The working of terracotta is not restricted
to the production of domestic objects, but also to games such
as whistles, small bells and "pupi" that still enliven
our creches. S. Pietro in Lama, Lecce, Cutrofiano, Ruffano and
Lucugnano are well known for their flourishing production of
terracotta.
PAPIERMACHE
Papermaché production comes typically from Lecce. Also
the origin of this ancient trade dates back to some centuries
ago. It is said that it was born in the 600, in the back
of the shop of some barbers. Other people say that it was invented
by more modest people who enjoyed themselves in shaping straw
and rags covering them with paper, making in such a way the
famous statues and holy figures that are present still today
in many churches of Salento.
STONE FROM LECCE
The stone from Salento dates back to the second half of the
nineteenth-century. Already at that time it was unanimously
ascribed to the Miocene, a time during the tertiary period which
lasted from 23 to 17 millions of years ago. Today the working
techniques of the past have been replaced by modern machinery
that allows making works done with the stone from Lecce in less
time. However on the land there are still handicraftsmen that
work using the stone-cutter.
Due to its composition, the stone from Lecce obtained the function
of suitable material for decorations. It is also due to its
presence that today people can admire several Baroque works,
such as the church of Santa Croce in Lecce.
REEDS WEAVING
Today besides marshy reeds weaving, common cane-brake weaving
or wicker weaving it is possible to find sticks and young suckers.
Handmade techniques tend to praise the quality of the final
work and to fight against the quality of the industrial production
without the fear of losing. The current production is limited
to the area of Acquarica del Capo.
Reeds working exist in the province of Lecce from time immemorial.
Reeds weaving were born in the production of hampers and baskets
to pick up fruit or for ricotta or junket. However there are
also weaving works done with sticks and olive branches.
WEAVING AND EMBROIDERY
In almost all communes in the South of Salento there are spinners
and weavers that work with the traditional loom of Salento.
It is a treadle loom with a very ancient origin.
It has a rectangular shape and it is made of olive wood. Also
embroideries and lace are one of the highest prides of the expert
tradeswomen of Salento.
This tradition was handed down from mother to daughter. In each
village of the province there is at least an embroideress and
lace-maker who is able to decorate a highly valuable trousseau.
The most known lace is the "chiacchierino", which
is done with a spool on the fingers, and also the "tombolo",
which is done with the famous art of weaving the treads around
other treads that are pinned up on a drawing fixed on a big
cylindrical and stuffed pillow.
WROUGHT IRON AND COPPER
Using hammer and forge, very ancient tools, craftsmen, still
today, make candlesticks, chandeliers, heads of beds, gratings,
balusters, banisters, grilles and railings. Copper is lighter
and with its particular read colour, it has always been a highly
demanded metal.
The objects made of copper are often wonderful jugs, carafes,
amphorae, coffee-pots, cruets and frying-pans. It is also worth
noting enamelled copper.
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HISTORY
Salento is the most oriental region of Italy, a border land,
like a balcony that faces two seas.
Salento history always met with the Oriental one, starting from
the legend that sees in the inhabitant of Creta the founders
of Lecce. This is also due to the Mediterranean facing it and
where a lot of civilisations meet.
During the Bronze Age the Salento peninsula was inhabited by
Indo-European populations. Testimonies of this period are the
ten dolmens and menhir that are in the lower part of Salento.
The first inhabitants of this land, around the V century BC,
were the Messaps who were dedicated to agriculture, horse breeding
and pottery. This population gave an impulse to the construction
of cities with imposing walls.
However, already during the VIII century, Greek settlers founded
along the coast cities such as Gallipoli, Otranto, Taranto that
would become landmarks of Magna Grecia, small capital cities
more prestigious than that of the fatherland.
As regards the Greeks presence in Salento, there is still today
a linguistic area named Greece of Salento. This Hellenic area
is located in Lecce province, within the heart of Salento, at
South-East of the Salento peninsula. It has very ancient origins:
some set the origins of the Greek area during the Byzantine
period; whereas others anticipate its birth to the period of
Magna Grecia. This ethnic and linguistic minority embraces nine
communes: Calimera, Castrignano dei Greci, Corigliano d'Otranto,
Martano, Martignano, Melpignano, Soleto, Sternatia and Zollino.
Immediately after the war in Taranto, Salento became a roman
province.
Romans, conquering Salento, discovered sculpture, painting and
the taste for poetry. One of the most important Roman writer
and poet was Quinto Ennio who was born in Messapica Rudiae,
a city at the gates of Lecce where today there are still archaeological
remains. Romans took advantage of their strategic position strengthening
the road system coming from the Urbe, making of Brindisi the
terminus of the Appian and Traiana Way and building there harbours
such as in San Cataldo and Roca.
After the fall of the Roman Empire of Occident, Salento underwent
the Byzantine and the Norman rule that, together with Federico
II, brought the region to be once again the centre of the world.
Under the Swabian started a long period of decadence that went
on under the Angevin, the Aragonese and the Spanish vice-regal
rule that brought new sacrifices to this land.
The peninsula went through a long period of sacks and destruction.
The contacts with the Balkan side were intense till the invasions
of the Goths, Longobards and Byzantines. The latter ruled for
many centuries. The constant penetration of the Orient Church
characterised the religious life: firstly with the incoming
of isolated individuals escaping from religious and political
persecutions, then with the spreading of monacheism in particular
the one inspired to San Basilio. The followers of San Basilio
built everywhere coenobia gathering around them the population
divided between prayers and field labour.
Another important but at the same time dramatic period for Salento
was the Turks invasion that in 1480 attached and sacked Otranto
whose resistance was punished by the killing of 800 inhabitants.
This was one of the episodes that started the construction of
guard-towers under the Spanish rule, starting from the sixteenth
century, during the reign of Carlo V.
Lecce became, during the same period, one of the most beautiful
and important city for cultural and artistic activities. Besides
attracting nobles and scholars, it also involved the inland
with its baroque aspect.
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FARMS
"Masserie" = FARMS represent a close relationship
among man life, work and production.
They testimony the type of economic and social organisation
of the land and of the rural settings that dates back to the
Medieval period. They were built for the farmers who worked
the fields even if they belonged to the rich landowners who
benefited of a part of the harvest. The other part was of the
farmer who, in such a way, also gets the home for his own family.
The production was mainly the growing of wheat, olives, and
cereals, besides cattle-breeding, milk and cheese production.
All the farms had a tower that was almost never inhabited by
the farmer, but it was inhabited by the owner. The other purpose
of the tower was to make sighting easier. The lower part of
the farm was used for milk working. Around the tower there was
often a spiral staircase that could reach 15 or 16 meters, next
to it there were always a well, basins for washing and watering
places.
Lecce district has many examples of farms: Rauccio: it is between
Surbo and Torre Rinalda. It has ruins of a chapel and a cylindrical
dove-cot located not far from the simple line tower that dominates
the verdant landscape. In 1755 it belonged to the Convent of
Santissima Annunciata of Lecce.
In the neighbourhood of this farm there is another one called
Masseria Barrera composed of two flanked towers, both of them
supplied with embrasures in line with doors and windows.
Masseria Coccioli is another one of the same importance. Though
deserted, it still preserves the memory of a happy season for
Salento agricultural economy. It is composed of a tower with
a squared basis, an internal staircase, a drawbridge and a chapel.
On the contrary, Masseria Monacelli is defaced by vandals who
deprived it of its four coat-of-arms and its statue. There is
also an underground oil-mill. From here it is possible to see
the two floors tower with an internal staircase of the next
Masseria Gianpaolo that is bound to the names of the most important
feudal families of Lecce, among which Federico Tafuri and Gian
Domenico Cigala.
Furthermore, on the road to Squinzano there is Masseria Ghietta
with its two floors tower and an elegant small church dedicated
to S. Maria degli Angeli.
Even in Nardò lands, in times gone by, there were several
farm-houses among which Masseria Carignano Grande with the chapel,
the dove-cot tower with a circular basis. The elegant ashlar-work
in the sixteenth century style frames doorways and windows.
The building is shaped more as a typical rustic villa than a
fortified farm. It also has a well and a cistern.
After several hundred of meters, at the cross-roads between
Gallipoli and Taranto, there is Masseria Brusca with its eighteenth
century chapel and the architectural motives that surround the
garden walls. At 2 Km distance, on the road that from Nardò
leads to Manduria, it is possible to catch a glimpse of Masseria
Nucci, a rather modest building complex with a two floors tower
slightly leaning at the basis that dates back to the first half
of the fifteenth century. In 1699 it was given to the Monastery
of S. Chiara di Nardò.
Almost at the border there is another building, Masseria Sciogli
with its two towers built during different periods. On one of
them lean a brick staircase and a massive drawbridge. The decorative
motives are of elegant making.
In the middle of a pine forest it is possible to catch a glimpse
of the outline of Masseria Giudice Giorgio, the most spectacular
rural building of Salento, with embrasures and angular look-out
turrets linked with a covered hall that give the effect of being
close to a castle. On the road from Vergole to Porto Cesareo
there is Masseria Trappeto with a scenographical staircase leaning
on the tower, a room with an oil-mill and a wide wall where
runs a pathway from which one reaches a staircase located on
the wall adjoining the main entrance.
From Gallipoli to Santa Maria di Leuca there are many other
farms. On the land between Torre S. Giovanni Marina, Ugento,
Pressicce and Torre Vado, there is another group of farms different
for typology and structure such as the stately Torre Mammarie,
the cylindrical Torre Vecchia, from Masseria Tunna to Masseria
del Feudo up to Masseria Torre Pali.
In the last ten years many farms were restored and became houses,
but there are also farm holidays and hotels that preserve untouched
the charm of the past, a landscape to discover, scenery that
changes continuously but that still remains evocative.
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TOWERS
On the Salento coasts
there are about 58 towers, located on promontories or on rocky
grounds. Some of them still preserve all their magnificence.
During the Saracen incursions they were used as sighting towers.
They are landmarks for
sailors, they identify places and they make the Marine atmosphere
special.
The majority of them have
a squared plan with a slightly leaning basis and a structure
provided with loopholes and embrasures; some others are cylindrical.
In Lecce Marine there
is Torre Specchiolla with a squared basis and a pyramid-shaped
trunk. It has 12 embrasures (an opening done in rock projections
and galleries to throw stones and boiling liquid on the enemies
but also to favour the downflow of waters) "a filo di scarpa"
(an inclined terrace, usually built with ground that gives to
the wall a progressively enlarged form at the basis). Torre
Rinalda is similar to the previous one even if it has a different
size; Torre Veneri whose trunk is still pyramid-shaped but unfortunately
the above part has fallen down; Torre Chianca that was built
in 1569 and has a circular shape and San Cataldo that exists
since 1485.
In the area of Medelungo
Marine, instead, there is Torre Specchia Ruggeri that was built
in 1568, has a squared basis and has no signs of embrasures.
On the contrary, Torre San Foca has 12 embrasures, three on
each side. Only in 1577 there was added a falconet (a small
piece of artillery). Torre Roca Vecchia, today in decay, is
similar to the other towers and was built on a rock close to
the shore; Torre dell'Orso where are preserved some names of
horse-dealers such as Giovanni Maria Corvino, Gennaro Stefano,
Pietro Corsano and Giovanni Battista Cortese.
In Otranto there are the
following towers: Torre S. Andrea that was rearranged and is
now used as the Harbour-Office; Torre Fiumicelli that has always
a pyramid-shaped trunk, is by the Alimini beach and its above
floor has almost entirely collapsed; Torre del Serpe has a cylindrical
shape, even it is slightly in decay, it was the old city lighthouse
and is the symbol of Otranto; Torre dell'Orte has been transformed
in a farm. Finally, Torre Sant'Emiliano that dominates the bay
bearing the same name and has a part that collapsed.
Between Santa Cesarea
and Castro there are other towers, for example Torre Minervino
with its typical low and round shape and its walls of large
thickness, shape that was used for castles has two towers and
three embrasures "a filo di scarpa", on the top there
are small fire mouths. Torre di Castro with a squared basis
dominates a great area and has big loopholes (a narrow opening,
done directly in the tower walls, that became wide towards the
inside so that the defender could use arms remaining sheltered)
able to fire on the beneath coast. Torre Lupo is located on
a hill, it has a cylindric shape and a "torus marcapiano"
(horizontal line, sometimes of bricks, on the façade
of a house that mark the division between a floor and the other)
The nearby Torre di Andriano has almost entirely collapsed.
Towards Leuca there are the following
towers: Torre del Sasso is built on a height far from the coast,
Torre Palane has two "tore marcapiano" that divide
the lower floor from the upper one, and it has an embrasure,
four fire mouths and small brackets.
Torre di Naspre was built in 1565, is on a cliff vertically
on the sea, has a circular shape and is half destroyed. Torre
di Specchia Grande has a circular shape, was built in 1550 but
is now deeply rearranged. Torre di Novaglie was built during
the reign of Pedro di Toledo and today is a ruin. Torre dell'Ominimorti
is a wide and mighty casematte (a construction with openings
towards the outside to be able to fire for defence) with a low
and round shape. It was built in 1569; a "torus marcapiano"
divides it in two parts: on the lower floor there are four big
loopholes and on the upper floor there are the Barbetta batteries
(platform located on the higher part of the tower to allow stones
hurling).
From Leuca to Ugento there are Torre di Marchiello, with a cylindric
shape, that is now a ruin; Torre Vado that on the upper floor
has many small brackets interrupted by four embrasures that
support a wonderful battlement. Torre Pali is located exactly
in the middle of the sea; Torre Mozza has a cylindric shape
and at the top still has brackets that hold the above floor.
Torre S. Giovanni was built in 1565 and was attached by the
Turks who tried to destroy it. There are signs of that battle
still today.
Along the coast road from Gallipoli to Nardò there are
the following towers: Torre Suda has a cylindric shape, a staircase
that leads to the upper floor, ornamental brackets, a "torus
marcapiano", an embrasure and a quadrangular construction
added during a following period. Torre del Pizzo or del Cotriero
is divided in two parts.
Torre S. Giovanni della pedata (kick) has three embrasures on
each side and has a cylindric shape. Torre Sabea has a spatule
outline mounted on the upper floor of the cylindrical building.
Torre dell'Alto Lido has a pyramid shaped trunk and a wonderful
staircase that leads to the upper floor. Torre del Fiume called
Four Columns, is built where several spring of fresh-water flow.
It is a small block-house with towers that are 16 meters high
and their plan is pentagonal. They are divided in three floors
and by two "tore marcapiano". Torre S. Caterina has
a beautiful staircase and three embrasures on each side. Torre
dell'Alto dominates the coast. Torre dell'Uluzzo has partly
fallen down. Torre dell'Inserraglio has embrasures and fire
mouths.
From Porto Cesareo to San Pietro in Bevagna rise: Torre Sant'Isidoro,
Torre Squillace, Torre Porto Cesareo that is now the Customs
Office, Torre Chianca, Torre Lapillo, Torre Castiglione, Torre
Colimena, Torre Saline where on the first floor there were warehouses
to keep salt. It has barrel vaults and hog-backed floor (ideal
to drain salt humidity). Torre Baracco is based on a big reef,
Torre dei Molini; Torre di San Pietro in Bevagna has a big size
and its characteristic four point star shape.
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CASTLES
Salento peninsula was
considered for centuries the 'door of Italy', a border land,
where the historical events influenced the settling down order
also because of its geographical position.
This allows the creation
of highly complex defence systems and the testimony is given
by the fortified castles built to defend the land. They were
surrounded by big blocks of stones. It is still possible to
see some remains in Vaste and Muro Leccese. These complex systems
of defence were used especially after the fall of the Roman
rule.
In Otranto, Aragonese
Castle was built between 1485 and 1498 and is surrounded by
a deep ditch with three cylindrical towers and a bastion shaped
as a sharp lance. Under the Spanish occupation a big part of
the castles were rebuilt and reinforced.
It is also worth noting
Acaya Castle, a small village that is 11 Km far from Lecce.
It was built by Alfonso of Acaya between 1496 and 1506, then
enlarged and fortified by Gian Giacomo during 1521.
The plan of Medelungo
Castle is star-shaped and its nucleus dates back to the XVII
century. The fort, enlarged by Ameli Barons, is now inhabited
by the Sisters Stigmatiche.
Andrano Castle was built
by Spinola family during the XIII century; its plan is squared
and has a circular tower. Depressa Castle, after its reconstruction
in 1548, was changed into a farm with its squared towers, its
open gallery and its stair. Tricase Castle was supplied with
a defence system during the XIII century, when the feud belonged
to Pignatelli family. The inhabited part was surrounded by a
large ditch and had two doors that faced the sea and the countryside.
As it always happened, the Turks
destroyed almost entirely this defence system that was then
rebuilt by the Gallones during the following century. Along
the walls it is still possible to see two vertical fissures
along which ran the drawbridge chains.
Tutino Castle (Tricase
hamlet) has a modest size and was built in 1580 by the feudatory
Luigi Trane. Till some years ago it still preserved the internal
furniture formed by the gallery and the Prince throne.
Caprarica Castle is particularly
significant for the peculiar structure of the walls parameter
and the yellow colour of the walls that are made of carparo.
It has a squared plan, four cylindrical towers located at the
corners and has also a machicolation with three mouths that
defends the central door.
Lucugnano Castle has a
severe and embattled quadrangular tower. It was built during
the XVI century by Castrista Scandeberg family and then was
passed on to Capace family. Alessano Castle with its sixteenth
century façade that was built by Gonzaga family and the
adjoining San Giovanni Palace overlook the surrounding land.
Morciano Castle was built by Guglielmo VI of Brienne around
the first half of the XIV century. It has a squared plan and
at the corners there are cylindrical towers. Only one of them
maintained its original size, since one was demolished to leave
its place to a chapel and the other two became part of a fortification
of a following period. It has embrasures, loopholes and gunners
for small artillery. The castle was defended by a row of tower
houses.
Ugendo Castle has an irregular
trapezoidal plan with angular towers of which two are no longer
present. Supersano Castle was erected following the order of
two Generals of Carlo V after the battle that took place in
1528 at the slope of the hill by the present cemetery. Here
there was a small church, called Vittoria Crurch, that was then
destroyed and whose altar was brought in the basilian crypt.
At the present time it belongs to d'Amore family. Ruffano Castle
rises in the wonderful square of the village and on the site
of a previous fortification that dates back to the Medieval
period.
Casarano Castle is considered
the biggest chatelaine residence in Salento and its façade
is 120 meters. It is made of carparo. Parabita Castle belonged
to Castrista family. On the façade there is the coat-of-arms
of Ferrari family who lived there during the XVIII century.
Gallipoli Castle was rebuilt
during the XVI century incorporating the previous Angevin foundation
that was raised on a Byzantine fortification. Nardò Castle
has mandorla towers and is at the present time the town-hall.
Corigliano d'Otranto Castle has a squared plan, four angular
towers and is surrounded by a ditch. It is stretched on a surface
of about 730 square meters. Several Baroque decorations were
added later on between 1500 and 1600. Copertino Castle was built
between 1530 and 1540 by Evangelista Menga on the remains of
a Medieval dwelling and has a Renaissance doorway conceived
as a triumphal arch.
Let us also mention Castro
Castle that rises on the remains of a stone and represents a
significant example of Medieval architecture. In Santa Maria
al Bagno, the castle is also called 'the four columns' even
if there is still little of its angular towers of a quadrangular
base of the sixteenth century. Last but not least, Lecce Castle
that was built following an order of Carlo V. It has a trapezoidal
shape; it is separated by a middle yard with four struts of
different size at its sides. It has a remarkable architectonic
interest.
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